I've been building, modifying and adding on to my NIC cage for the past 8 months, and I think it's finally done. Hurrah!!
Now, because there are always a lot of posts by the members here on NIC cage tips or wanting examples. I'm going to make a really long (cut) post showing the evolution of my NIC cage and finally outlining the key features in the (current) final version that I think will make this my winning cage.
First, the final list of supplies! I'm not going to include the interim supplies, just the final tally.
- 51 NIC panels (reduce by one for a cage that's not partitioned)
- A whole whack load of Zip ties (I'm thinking along the lines of 150, but I think total I've used close to 400-500 from re-models, broken ties, etc)
- Two corrugated plastic (Coroplast) pieces 18x24" (could have been a couple inches longer because it doesn't quite cover two NIC panels) for shelves
- One corrugated plastic piece 48x96cm (approx 48x96", this piece just barely fit inside my CR-V, so make sure you've got one hell of a vehicle if you need a piece this big)
- 6 medium-size binder clips
- 4 leash clips
So here is version one of the cage, this was just for Victor before I had gotten a second bun.
Quick overview, it has shelves at mid-level on the panel, blame the paranoid bunny mom, I didn't want him falling and hurting himself. One shelf at one panel high connecting the two corner shelves, support panel in the middle of the cage below the pen panel high shelf. The flooring is cardboard covered in stick-on linoleum tiles, it's a really cheap solution for a floor, but unless you're awesome at tiling you'll have to make sure to keep the cage clean or make sure your buns are completely litter trained because the small space between the tiles does allow for leakage after long amounts of standing time.
I got frustrated with this design because it was hard to clean, I had a lot of lift-up roof pieces, but overall just too many inaccessible corners.
Here is version two with plans for a second bun to share the space.
The entire front half lifted up to allow for VERY easy cleaning and access, all one level, pretty simple. Same flooring as above.
This is the co-habitation cage that my two boys are now in.
this cage, when all the roof panels are opened is actually large enough in each half that I can climb inside for intense cleaning (floor scrubbing mostly) and I'm 5'7" (5'8" on a good day) and around 130lb. I do have to sit on my knees, but I can still get right inside the cage!
This is Victor's half of the cage
He's not a tosser so he gets a HUGE water bowl, a shoe box for nibbling/pushing/playing in. The roof attachments are more relaxed because Victor isn't a very inventive escape artist the only thing he tries is pushing on the door.
This is Henry's half of the cage
He will toss, flip and push anything that's not secured, so he gets a huge water bottle, a cardboard ring for tossing, and his box. Oh my how he loves that box. Half the time I have to look twice to make sure he's actually in the cage because he's hiding in his box. The roof and door panels are secured a lot more than Victor's because Henry is like the Houdini of the rabbit world, I've personally witnessed him jump up and crawl out the very top of the cage (yeah, two feet up in the air, grab the NIC squares and crawl out the top). He gets leash clips and double the binder clips that Victor has.
The shelves
The shelves are two panels long so the zip ties hold them up securely for my 2.5lb bunnies (they may be tipping 3lbs, but I'd be surprised if they are). There is a full partition because the boys aren't bonded yet (waiting for neutering), but it would be easy enough to take out one of the panels to join the cage. The Coroplast just sits on top of the NIC panels so they can be lifted out to see what you're cleaning underneath.
Roof panel attachments
Leash clips at the corners where my buns typically nose and nudge to try and lift and a binder clip at the centre simply to keep the side panels from moving back and forth.
Front cage lip
Zip tied to the panel both to keep the lip up and avoid spills onto the carpet (it's long and doesn't stay completely upright) and to keep the panels from sliding back and forth.
Rear cage lip
A little more difficult to see, but the pure white is the coroplast and the cream colour is the wall. The lip extends almost completely to the top of the shelf. This will stop most lower level spraying from hitting the wall, and prevents a lot of spills.
Cage doors
The doors swing into the cage, this way the front lip can just extend all the way and prevent even door spills, and the small squares offer a bit more support and stability at the doors for escapist buns who push with all their might against the door.
And just for fun, a picture of Victor and one of Henry!
Henry says: "My box!!! ...I mean... Hi!"
Victor says: "Hello. And no. I won't share with you."
x-posted to rabbitowners